I started the day near Skaholt, an early Icelandic settlement. The church, seen below, is like all Icelandic churches I have visited, anti-Baroque in that they are literally empty buildings with a cross, chairs, an organ, and some candles. Spartan indeed. After a visit to the archaeological dig that has unearthed the remains of the first church on that spot I went Foss hunting after a quick detour to the Kerið carter. Very cool. By the way, foss is Icelandic for waterfall and the three I visited today were the best I’ve seen. The first Hjalparfoss is a twin waterfall that, like Gjain, only accessible after a harrowing drive over the lunar landscape. The third is Seljalandfoss that I raced to in a minor break in the thundering rainfall here in southern Iceland. I also stopped at a black church (they use tar to weather seal like a boat) and bought a hat!